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A Day in Chemainus
By Glen Cowley
Special To The Chemainus Valley Courier

People most often visit Chemainus for its murals or live theatre, perhaps browsing the stores and taking a carriage ride. Unfortunate, for they are missing so much more in the ‘Little Town that Did’, as the now somewhat dated phrase proclaims.

For families, singles or couples there is an easy day here, one accommodating any pocket book.

You may want to begin your day early at the downtown parking lot beside Waterwheel Park on Willow Street.

Stretch, study the map near the churning waterwheel and set off for a full day’s activities, all within easy walking distance.

Five minutes north along Willow and left on Oak Street brings you to the small wilderness enclave of Askew Creek Wilderness Park. A tended trail weaves through looming stands of Douglas Fir, Hemlock and Cedar following the sweeping curves of Askew Creek, trickling or rushing as the weather dictates. Within these cool green halls, chittering with songbirds and echoing the gurgle of the creek, it is easy to imagine yourself far away from the world of man just a stone’s throw away.

Down Oak towards the ferry and left on Maple brings you to Kin Beach Park where at low tide you can walk out to Bird Rock which shelters multi-hued starfish and anemones huddled under rocks and in crevasses. Entertainment may be provided by synchronized water jets from burrowing Horse Clams, complaining Herring Gulls, flotillas of Buffleheads, nattering yellow-eyed Oyster Catchers, Black-headed Kingfishers, the seasonal appearance of Bald Eagles sitting majestic on the little harbour light atop Bird Island, Mallards and the odd Harlequin duck or Loon tarrying along the shoreline.

Occasionally a curious harbour seal pokes its head above water to survey the surroundings. If you are willing to scramble a bit along the rocky shoreline the other side of the boat launch, where the new marina complex is being built, you can spy Cormorants, regal and still, dotted atop old pilings.

Or, you can sit back and drink in the long outline of the Coast Mountain Range and the shades of blue-green overlapping islands in between.

Back in the downtown area, the Visitor Information Centre, close by the Waterwheel parking lot, affords all sorts of information, including a video history of the world famous murals and an official mural route map for one loonie. This self-guided walking tour of the famed murals is aided by the painted yellow feet you can follow around town.

The pamphlet provides a short note about each of the murals, now officially numbering 40; the latest being a 3D depiction of Emily Carr paintings splayed out upon the wall of the Chemainus Theatre. Poignant stories lie behind these artistic impressions drawn from the dynamic and ancient heritage of this idyllic haven by the sea. Statues and fountains, with stories implied or recounted, enhance the atmosphere. The intricately recreated creek, at Heritage Square, with its forlorn statues and the tale of elusive Snipes is worth a special visit.
A leisurely 45-minute stroll can easily double once you allow time to view, ponder and photograph. Nor is it likely your gaze and interest can avoid the attraction of the numerous quaint and colourful buildings and shops arrayed along Willow and Maple Streets.


Or, even better, why not take a tour with Isabel Askew? This season, for the first time, local actor Michelle Lieffertz is portraying the Chemainus pioneer who lived in the community in the 1800s. Michelle, in Victorian costume, provides a tour of Chemainus, expertly explaining the significance of the murals and the history of the various locations on her tour. Drop by the Visitor Information for more details on the Isabel Askew tour or call 250-246-3944.



Keep an eye on the time and the ferry schedule for Thetis Island. It is a short and scenic walk from the parking lot to the ‘Old Town’ running down to the ferry dock at the foot of Oak Street. The pathway through Waterwheel Park offers a long and stunning view down Maple Street to the ocean.

Waiting for the ferry you can stroll the docks at the Marina or tuck back at the Book Nook bookstore and coffee house, browse for used books, fritter away time on the Internet or listen to local gossip. It’s an easygoing local hangout oozing the charm of “Island Time”.

It’s a refreshing 25-minute ferry ride from Chemainus across Stuart Channel to Thetis Island, well worth the time and $8.60 per person. A new perspective sweeps into view as you chug out of the harbour past Cormorants lined up along log booms airing their feathers like fishermen telling tall tales of the one that got away.

The idyllic, manicured grounds of Capernwray Bible School, crowding the shoreline, welcome you to Thetis.

A sedate ten-minute walk brings you to the long, sheltered finger of Telegraph Harbour lying between Thetis and Kuper Islands. Overlooking the bay and marina is the Thetis Island Restaurant and Pub with its unassuming and relaxed atmosphere. A place to enjoy a coffee or sip a brew at any time, but a special place if you get there for the Bald Eagles.

I’ve been told up to 40 at a time have been spied circling overhead, hopping along the rocky shoreline, dotting the forest cover on the opposite shore and even staging the occasional courtship dance in dramatic, taloned-embraced spirals over the bay. Every year from mid-May to mid-June they come. Bring your binoculars.

Returning to Chemainus, the hour of the day may be gnawing at your stomach or whispering “treat, treat”. Coffee shops and ice cream outlets complement the numerous restaurants and pubs and you can always picnic at Kin Park. Either way you can keep your day alive lazing back afterwards at the Dancing Bean Café, where musical entertainment adds to the ambience on Fridays and Saturdays, or at the Twisted Sisters Tea House on Maple Street (open until 11:00 p.m.), where you can enjoy whatever is playing on their big screen and an assortment of over 149 nine teas.

There is more – the famous live Chemainus Theatre, the Hermit Trails, galleries, street musicians, the sunken Boeing 737, local museum, the mural tour by carriage, and a never ending series of community events - but that requires another day. This is not a place to hurry.

The eagles would say you are missing the show if you do.